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Post by ScottC on Jan 1, 2006 17:16:16 GMT -5
.....you have peaked my interest in traditional bowhunting. I have had a week where recurves & readings about traditional bowhunting have been everywhere I turned.
Reading other boards where there is a traditional forum has only given me more questions. How does one get started? Many bow shops do not carry traditional equipment, how does one get "sized" for a bow? Bow selection: recurve, longbow, selfbow, what's the difference & which is best for hunting?
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Post by admin on Jan 1, 2006 17:25:53 GMT -5
Good thread Scott. Looking forward to educating myself form the posts.
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Post by bowtech on Jan 1, 2006 19:51:15 GMT -5
Once you go to the trad you may have to get a dust cover for your other bow so consider carefully before taking the plung  The beauty of Traditional archery is that one bow fits all in most every case when talking about commercial lines. All bows are weight rated at 28" (other than custom work)and you can add or subtract 5# for every inch above or below that mark. If you are a 27" and you want a 50# bow then you will need to buy a bow that is rated 55# The spline for your arrows needs to be stiffer than that of the same weight for a compound. When looking for arrows where no trad chart is available just add 5# to the chart size for a compound. Therefor....a 50# bow would require spline for 55# on a compound chart. I reccomend carbon because of its large spline range Balance head weight between 12% and 14% for Trad shooting and always choose a heavier spline rather than a weaker spline when its a close call as to which to choose. Trad equipment is a very personal selection process and I would reccomend to Never buy a bow that you have not held in your hands. That is to say , if you want a Martin Momba then make sure you have held a Momba....it does not have to be "the Momba". But.... I suggest buying an ebay bow first. Why?...well , look first for a bow that is considered a classic but not a collectable. A classic denotes that a wide majority of the public (at the time) like and used this bow and therefor it is most likely going to work well for you as a first step tool. Second...not being a classic keeps the price down (I would be happy to watch ebay for you and post likely bows if you would like) Recurve or Longbow?....Hmmmm Recurve is generally the easiest for the majority of people to learn on but this is not a rule. All the same , people who shoot a Longbow well generally can do just as well with a recurve so if you are that lucky guy , congrats!.....for now I would suggest the recurve untill you find out for sure what you are better with. What do you need? Easy stuff here  ....here is a list and you will not need more than this: Glove: three finger full palm with an open back and make it leather that is neither soft nor hard Arm guard: Smooth leather and hard leather with cross tie bungee material is best. Bow and arrows and quiver of choice. A mention about quivers. Back quivers of the traditional type are a pain in the butt but look good. Attached quiver can be reall good if you need balance or the bow is to light and I do use one on one (only one) of my own. Hip quivers are best IMO My estimate is that you should be able to have everything you need for around $130. - $200. w/o arrows since you may be able to use what you have now (?) You probably wont find this out from a seller on ebay but you might (there are alot of traders/collectors there) but trad. bows are tillered for the way you shoot. An even tiller is shot with the index finger over and and offset tiller is used for three fingers under. An even tillerd bow (majority) can be shot three under but if the bow is old it will most likely destroy it within a short time. (4 to 20 months) But if the price is right...no big deal because you'll know by then if you want to stick to it or not and it will be time to get rid of it by then anyway. I prefer to get people shooting three under because I can get anyone hitting the bulls eye within 1/2 an hour that way. Its hard enough to learn so the easy way is the best way to start. I also prefer to use a flipperII rest (NAP) because it makes arrow flight better and it can be used as a sight aid if you desire. You can shoot off the shelf just fine but I prefer to teach on a rest and I use a rest to this day on a recurve although I have no rest on the Longbows. Nocking point generally is higher set and I start at anywhere from 3/16 to 3/8ths. and work from there by shooting into a no-directional bale at seven feet and adjusting for nock hieght from there. I finish with a broadhead flight test and adjust for any flight erro with nocking position. Feathers are a must...dont even kill yourself trying to shoot vanes Alright...my hands are falling asleep.....what else would you like to know? i16.ebayimg.com/04/i/05/3c/54/5a_1.JPG |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 1, 2006 20:07:21 GMT -5
One thing I forgot...choose your first bow buy going 15# below what you are presently shooting with your compound This is what you are looking for in an arm guard. i21.ebayimg.com/04/i/05/b0/bf/b5_2.JPGNote the finish of the leather. This one has a leather strap (no good) but if it had a bungee cord it would be perfect! |
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Post by ScottC on Jan 1, 2006 20:25:36 GMT -5
Once you go to the trad you may have to get a dust cover for your other bow so consider carefully before taking the plung I have heard that, and recently read that, too. I believe I am up to the challenge. Nothing for the moment. Thank you for your reply. You have given me a bunch to digest for the moment. I'm sure more questions will arise. I had figured a recurve, but wasn't sure how to figure draw weight. My compound is 60#, so I would get a 45# recurve, correct? Carbon arrows will most likely be another question. But one answered when the bow is chosen, I assume. I never knew recurves used arrow rests. I would appreciate the eBay watch as I have no clue and value your input. |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 1, 2006 20:44:30 GMT -5
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Post by ScottC on Jan 1, 2006 20:59:11 GMT -5
I have a bid going on those two bows. Thanks for the tips. If you suggest a rest, then I will go with a rest. |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 1, 2006 22:04:37 GMT -5
Those are right hand  Ididnt know you were left but you can split that pair and sell each for the current bid if you end up taking them  ---------------------- Please tell me you got my PM 8 mins ago and beat me on the bid for that lefty!   If not....   I think I'm gonna Puke! That was the greatest bow for that price |
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Post by ScottC on Jan 2, 2006 7:59:26 GMT -5
Oh well...that's life. I hope someone beats my max bid for the other bows, or else I'll just resell them.
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Post by bowtech on Jan 2, 2006 21:22:02 GMT -5
Darn shame too  I would have bought that if I could have been sure that we werent bidding against each other ;D That was just a beauty There are not many leftys but the good side of that is that they sell cheap! I looked tonight and there isent anything worth you money there. I'll recheck friday or saterday since I covered all bows selling within the next week already. |
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Post by ScottC on Jan 3, 2006 6:46:36 GMT -5
Thanks for looking, bowtwch. I now own two Pearson recurves.  Oh well, live and learn. When my 3 day waiting period on eBay is over, I can contact others who bid and see if they want them for their price bid. For now, I have to contact the owner and make payment arrangements. What are your thoughts on a (Martin) Mamba? Someone on another forum, who I know, has a friend with one to sell. |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 3, 2006 7:26:56 GMT -5
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Post by ScottC on Jan 3, 2006 11:04:27 GMT -5
Thanks again for the info. I will check all sites. I sent a PM yesteday to the lady with the friend, and have not heard back yet about any of the specifics. |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 10, 2006 19:22:01 GMT -5
SCOTT!!!
Check your PM's
There is a perfect bow (perfect) on ebay with two days left and the price is about $70. - 80. below fair value.
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Post by ScottC on Jan 11, 2006 12:15:08 GMT -5
Thanks bowtech. Appreciate all the watching you have been doing. Hopefully, I will get this bow. Best one yet. |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 11, 2006 16:43:17 GMT -5
It sure is!....you have been very fortunite to have made the decision to go trad. when you did. I havent seen this nice a LH in some time |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 11, 2006 16:55:41 GMT -5
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Post by ScottC on Jan 11, 2006 17:44:25 GMT -5
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Post by bowtech on Jan 11, 2006 21:16:25 GMT -5
well heres one way of looking at it....the martin will probably go to 400+ But maybe not  ;D it's a lefty so at least you arent bidding aginst guys like me  I would also consider that this could be sold at any time for a handsome price and it would probably be your first and last recurve. As a take down it offers way many options |
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Post by admin on Jan 12, 2006 1:51:30 GMT -5
Good lookin bow.
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Post by ScottC on Jan 12, 2006 6:31:12 GMT -5
well heres one way of looking at it....the martin will probably go to 400+ As a take down it offers way many options We'll see what it is going for at the end, bowtech. So far not one bid yet. Maybe i can get it for $1 more than he started it at. Funny how he said "no reserve," but started the bidding at $285. LOL...sounds like a reserve to me. |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 12, 2006 7:20:35 GMT -5
Yeah but that bow is worth twice that much retail so it might as well have no reserve ;D Well we will see but if you have the opportunity to grab it you are probably looking at $200 (therabout) for new limbs. So while your waiting , maybe you want to drop martin a phone call and ask them retail for the x-tra limbs |
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Post by ScottC on Jan 12, 2006 7:56:38 GMT -5
Yeah but that bow is worth twice that much retail so it might as well have no reserve ;D Well we will see but if you have the opportunity to grab it you are probably looking at $200 (therabout) for new limbs. So while your waiting , maybe you want to drop martin a phone call and ask them retail for the x-tra limbs I hear ya. I was wondering about limb cost. I found a site where I can get a new Hatfield for $450 with 50 or 55# limbs. The limb cost to work back up to 65# might make the eBay bow cost prohibitive. From that same site, I could also get a new Mamba or Hunter for $360.  www.huntersfriend.com/traditional.htm |
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Post by bowtech on Jan 13, 2006 10:55:57 GMT -5
Well these bows are a bit over the top for a starter anyway considering the big picture. That bear (I sent you a PM) is at $57. and thats very worth while. |
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Post by ScottC on Jan 13, 2006 12:52:51 GMT -5
I am "watching" the Bear. It has gone up a bit from this morning.
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Post by bowtech on Jan 13, 2006 15:28:48 GMT -5
I suspect it will continue to edge up from now on out till the close of the auction.
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....here is a list and you will not need more than this:
Oh well, live and learn. When my 3 day waiting period on eBay is over, I can contact others who bid and see if they want them for their price bid. For now, I have to contact the owner and make payment arrangements.
;D it's a lefty so at least you arent bidding aginst guys like me 
